Controller and Electrical Related

maximizer 2

I chose the Maximizer 2 nitrous controller which I have to admit is a cool piece of technology. My original intention was to have something with ultimate control as I did not plan to spray from a dig or through the shifts.

After talking to the company that built my transmission (RPM) they told me spray from WOT and through the shifts. I was glad to hear this but it really eliminated the biggest reason I spent $675.00 on the controller. If I had a 2WD I might be able to use more of the features to pedal things and maintain traction but my AWD pretty much dead hooks and goes.

So it would NOT be my recommendation for anyone to purchase one of these things for basic N20 control. Nitrous Express has terrible support so you are pretty much on your own. Emails and online support request go unanswered. All that aside, it is the bad boy of controllers.

Controller mounting. My controller is PC programmable so I wanted easy access for PC connection. There is a steel plate under the plastic panel near your knees. There is plenty of room on the backside of this plate and allows access to all 5 weatherpack connectors. (See Figure 1 and 1a)

12 Volt Power can be found under the hood of the truck at the main distribution block. There is a fuse location (#23) that is unused. Schematics show it to be ETC for the I6 version trailblazers. This is a good location to pull "run" power from. I use it to power my nitrous control and LC-1 wideband sensor and gauge. There is a welded stud on the firewall close to where the steering column passes through the firewall. Removing the nut and adding a large ring terminal is a good location for ground.

Solenoids will require direct battery power and if you are running a heater on your bottle you will need good power for that as well. The best place to get power for me was at the back of alternator. I have the PCM of NC wiring upgrade kit so there is no shortage of power at this location. I ran a 30 amp fused line from alternator through the factory loom to my solenoids. The ground for my solenoid driver ran to a stud on my coil bracket and on to the large bolt on cast alternator bracket. This is also connected to battery via an upgrade PCM of NC cable. Heater power was easy for me as I already had a 4 gauge power block in the cubby for my audio system. My relay is fastened to the bottom of my false floor that my amp attaches to. (Figure 3)

If you need to run wiring to power your heater I would run a 12 gauge wire to the rear and fuse with a 30 amp inline fuse. Once removing the lower side panel on drivers side you will find a bolt that GM uses for harness ground. This is a good location to ground your heater.

Switches and Indicator. The Maximizer II has a bright LED that shows when armed and blinks during certain fault conditions which are programmable with the PC. I drilled a small hole in the dash in a location clearly visible when driving. I am running a pressure transducer instead of a pressure switch which regulates bottle pressure and will alarm and flash my LED with pressure drops to a certain point. (See Figure 4)

Youtube video of first power up here

I decided to create my own switch panel (see Figure 5). I started by cutting a piece of 2 x 2 x 1/8" angle 5 1/8" long. I had a plate laser etched which I attached to the angle with adhesive and then drilled the switch locations. Weatherpack connectors were installed so the console unit could be removed easily. With the exception of heater (controlled by Maximizer 2) the switches only work when the armed key is activated.

Harris sends really nice crimp connectors that have heavy shrink wrap attached. I did not use any of these as I solder all connections and then shrink wrap. Although expensive I used weatherpack connectors everywhere possible to make the system serviceable. I highly recommend you solder all connections as one small electrical fubar can be disastrous or at minium cause you grief chasing down gremlins.

Make sure any connector you use is rated for the amperage required. As an example my solenoids draw too much current and are wired direct with the exception of connector on relay.

Wiring for bottle heater, pressure transducer and bottle opener was routed under drivers sill plate along with nitrous feed line.

Wiring for TPS, timing device (optional), solenoid control, purge relay and power were run through the large firewall boot to the left of steering column on firewall. You can find the wiring connection information on in a Sticky created by Jay4Speed here.

I tapped the RPM signal behind cluster (see figure 2) and the TPS signal where it goes across intake manifold between TPS connector and ECM. This is only going to work for controllers that can read a reference signal. If your controller does not then you need to use something like a WOT switch which I installed and later decided not to use. You can see it here.

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Figure 1

Figure 1a

Figure 2 (click for larger)

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Figure 6 (click for larger)